Nath, Author at The Wheelchair Traveller

Day 5 (Jordan) – Final Thoughts

Steeped in history and mystery, Jordan is a country overlooked by many individuals due to issues with the preconceived infrastructure. Whilst this is true to an extent, companies such as Alpha Bus and Limousine Co. are making strides to ensure inclusivity despite these barriers, especially for foreign tourists.

It is worth noting that only a limited number of hotels in Jordan are fully accessible for wheelchair users i.e. wet rooms. This also applies to international hotel chains such as Marriott and Hilton hence one would recommend that it is checked out before booking.

Although it is clear that Jordan is becoming more inclusive, one cannot ignore the issues with the current infrastructure and it is important to work in harmony with it rather than perceiving it as an obstacle. This is evident driving around Amman where drop curbs are limited in addition to tree roots blocking the pavements. For this reason, one would highly recommend hiring a driver and accessible vehicle.

For one, staying at the Movenpick Dead Sea Resort enabled more freedom despite its isolated location. Superbunny was able to roam around the vicinity of the hotel without needing to step into crazy traffic in contrast to staying in the heart of Amman.

However, it must be said that there is a caveat to staying at the Dead Sea. Nearly all the hotels will not allow any type of food to be taken in, presumably so said hotel can charge extortionate prices. A shopping centre is located around 5-10 minutes walk containing a number of much cheaper restaurants. Rather cunningly, the street lights have been turned off between the hotels and shopping centre but if one is prepared to roll a little with very limited lighting, it is definitely worth it budget wise.

One of the highlights of Jordan is, of course, Petra. Due to the lack of information regarding the accessibility of the site for electric wheelchairs, oneself and Superbunny were flying blind. However, there was no need to worry providing that one is prepared for a bumpy ride at times, especially on the way to the Treasury.

Thanks again to Alpha Bus and Limousine Co. for opening up the beautiful country of Jordan to wheelchair users, definitely a ‘must see’ country…

Day 4 (Amman) – Accessibility, Citadels and Mosques

A ‘must see’ city whilst in Jordan is its beautiful capital of Amman. During the planning stages, one watched various ‘walking tour’ videos on YouTube to gain a sense of its accessibility and ‘rollability’. It was clear that one was going to encounter some of the same issues as Chennai in terms of the lack of drop curbs in addition to trees, traffic lights and other street furniture being located in the middle of pavements with little room to get past. It was for this reason that one decided it best to get chauffeured around the city in the wheelchair accessible van.

After a quick drive around the financial district, one arrived at the King Abdullah I Mosque which is believed to be the oldest mosque in Amman. Although steps lead up to the structure, a ramp (a lump of concrete) is located around the rear. Due to pavement issues and parking, it is necessary to roll up the main road to reach said ramp, however, drivers are courteous to ones presence…

Rather surprisingly, one was allowed into the mosque in Superbunny (after being denied access in Istanbul) to marvel at the architecture…

The next stop was the Citadel which stands proud over Amman and provides citywide views from every corner…

From previous research, one knew that the area was relatively accessible for wheelchair users. Again, disabled individuals can enter for FREE but companions must pay. It is worth noting that the main paths around the site consist of smooth paving. Of course, if one decides to take a detour, this may become a little bumpy…

Regarding accessibility of restaurants, a large proportion have one or two steps thus prior planning is recommended. However, ones private driver was able to seek an accessible traditional restaurant after making a few calls…

Driving through Downtown Amman, it seemed appropriate to stop off at the Roman Amphitheatre. Compared to the other places of interest, the entrance was up a flight of steps hence the manual wheelchair was used. As usual for Jordan, disabled individuals can enter for FREE. What is baffling, however, is that several ramps are located within the complex despite steps to enter…

There are also a few museum exhibits but, yet again, these have steps to enter. Before heading back to the hotel, one stopped by Rainbow Street which one was led to believe was a market area. In reality, it is simply a quirky art installation…

Tomorrow, one heads back to London Luton via Queen Alia International Airport.

Day 3 (Jordan) – Petra Accessibility

One cannot visit the country of Jordan without a trip to Petra, one of the wonders of the world. Today, we stepped into uncharted territory due to the lack of information regarding accessibility of the site, especially for electric wheelchairs.

Petra is located around a 3 hour drive from the resorts surrounding the Dead Sea. However, a perk of having a private driver meant that one could take the scenic route across the Jordanian desert. This meant winding our way through canyons taking in breathtaking views…

Upon arriving at Petra, one was surprised to see a fairly modern entrance complete with ramps etc. It is also worth noting that disabled individuals can enter for FREE, however, any companions must pay…

As the trails inside of Petra span 5km, one had to be conscious of Superbunnys battery life hence decided to stick to the ‘main’ trail. Despite this, said trail still takes between 3-5 hours to complete.

Leaving the visitor centre behind, one must roll around 15-20 minutes down to the start of As Siq. This is where the famous Treasury is located. Granted that this initial section is a little bumpy under foot, however, it is possible to pave a smooth (ish) path…

Once the entrance of As Siq is reached, its a further 2km of twists and turns before reaching the Treasury. 90% of this section has been paved over making for an easy roll for wheelchair users…

However, a potential issue for a wheelchair user comes within the other 10%. Every so often, the smooth paving gives way to rather large cobble stones which one can only assume have been left for preservation reasons. Indeed, it is somewhat possible to navigate a smoother route, however, Superbunny still struggled without assistance.

After around 2km, the famous Treasury unveils itself…

It is worth noting that the paving gives way to a sandy and rough surface here. However, it is still possible for a wheelchair user to navigate the area…

At the Treasury, it is possible to purchase refreshments albeit at a high price.

As one had already rolled around 3km, it seemed sensible to carry on just for another kilometre. It is worth noting that, after the Treasury, the surfaces become a lot more rough and sandy. However, if one keeps to the tracks made by the transportation buggies, it is not a problem.

Just a short walk away is the Street of Facades and the Theatre. It is possible to enter into the rock, however, the area seems to be used more of a toilet nowadays…

In conclusion, if one is content with a bumpy ride, Petra is definitely doable in an electric wheelchair. The only potential issue is combating the cobble stones on the way to the Treasury, however, if one can seek assistance, this can be overcome.

Tomorrow, we take a trip around Amman courtesy of the wheelchair accessible van.

Day 2 (Dead Sea) – Movenpick Resort

One of the reasons for coming to Jordan was to be able to ‘float’ in the Dead Sea hence it made sense to base ourselves within the ‘tourist’ area containing a myriad of hotel chains. Now, as you have the likes of Hilton and Marriott within said area, one would think that it would be easy to find an accessible room. It appears not, as during the planning, one discovered that nearly all accessible rooms do not have a wet room with a shower chair. It is for this reason that the Movenpick Dead Sea Resort was chosen.

Jordanian hospitality thus far has been very welcoming, especially towards oneself as a disabled individual. Prior to ones visit, a member of staff, Ahmad, was very keen to ensure that everything was in place in preparation. This extended to his physical interaction with oneself on arrival i.e. ensuring that one could see the hotel map whilst explaining…

The accessible room has ample space for a wheelchair user plus an adequate wet room with a shower chair which one was craving for during travels last year…

Akin to many hotels in the area, the Movenpick Resort has a private beach where one can ‘float’ in the Dead Sea. One is able to roll from the hotel to the waters edge (literally), however it is worth noting that said path contains rather steep hills. There is an option to hop on an electric buggy, however, this isn’t wheelchair accessible…

Like Ahmad, the patrolling Life Guard was very willing to assist where necessary i.e. lending a hand to get oneself into the (very salty) water to experience this…

N.B. Salty water hurts the eyes!

Back on dry land, the Life Guard, again assisted wherever possible i.e. covering oneself in Dead Sea mud (and bringing the hose pipe!)…

Tomorrow, one jumps back in the wheelchair accessible van for the drive to the world famous Petra. Let’s see how Superbunny (or an electric wheelchair) navigates the UNESCO site…

Day 1 (Jordan) – Wheelchair Accessible Transportation

Jordan has been on ones bucket list for some time now, mainly to experience Petra and float in the Dead Sea. However, it has been pushed back due to the lack of wheelchair accessible transportation in the country. Granted, one could have explored in the manual wheelchair but if famous UNESCO sites such as Petra were to be rolled around, it had to be with Superbunny! Only last year did Alpha Bus and Limousine Co. make it possible to explore Jordan in an electric wheelchair.

After a 5 hour flight from London Luton, one touched down at Queen Alia International Airport. It is worth noting that baggage handlers will not release oversized baggage (such as Superbunny) until they have cross referenced the relevant information hence it’s handy to have your baggage receipt at the ready to make a quick getaway.

The driver met one at arrivals and walked us out to the wheelchair accessible vehicle that we will be using over the next week. It has to be said that said vehicle must be one of the most luxurious and spacious that Superbunny has ever rolled into. A rear lift makes for easy access and a set of tie down points are available enabling a wheelchair user to choose where to sit…

The vehicle also has ample space for luggage meaning that it was even possible to fit the manual wheelchair in without the need for folding.

Tomorrow, one is remaining at the hotel (Movenpick Dead Sea Resort) to take a dip in the famous Dead Sea courtesy of a private beach!

Day 7 (Sarajevo) – Final Thoughts

Bosnia and Herzegovina, in particular Sarajevo, may not be on your average travellers bucket list, perhaps due to a lack of information regarding its accessibility (until this blog) or its association to the Bosnian War. However, if one visits regardless, you will experience one of the most beautiful cities in Europe.

Rolling around Sarajevo, one was surprised by the number of wheelchair users out and about in the city. Of course, this is, in part thanks to the accessible tram and cable car network. Granted, there is someway to go to make Sarajevo ‘fully accessible’ i.e. level access, however, one can say that about many European cities. From a brief chat with Care390, it appears that there are also a few accessible taxi companies within Sarajevo, however, it is unknown whether these are willing to travel.

During ones time in Bosnia and Herzegovina, the main barrier seemed to be the train network. As I mentioned previously, the train from Sarajevo to Mostar (and onwards) comprises of Spanish-built Talgo carriages complete with a wheelchair space (with tie-down points) and a portable ramp, The question is whether staff are trained to use said ramp as it comes as standard. The other potential issue is crossing the track at Sarajevo as giant gaps are present between the rails and the wooden walkway. This is made worse at night due to the lack of lighting!

Would one return to Sarajevo then? It depends, after seeing the main sights, there seems to be little to do, however, the beautiful surroundings of the Dinaric Alps does seem to make it the perfect place to relax and take in the scenery.

For the next adventure, one is heading to Jordan, in particular, Amman, the Dead Sea and the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Petra. Jordan has been on ones bucket list for a few years, however, as the country appears to be quite inaccessible, it was looking increasing likely that Superbunny would have to stay put for this one. However, in March 2024, a wheelchair accessible vehicle became available to hire hence one jumped straight at the prospect of a Jordanian road trip!

Let’s see how much of Amman and Petra Superbunny can navigate with an accessible van and a portable ramp…

Day 5 and 6 (Sarajevo) – The Downside of Connecting Flights

It was inevitable that something would untoward occur this year and, of course, it had to happen on the final day of ones 2024 travels! Let me elaborate…

As planned, Care390 kindly transported us from Hotel Holiday to the airport in plenty of time for our flight to Frankfurt (and then onto Heathrow). If you require accessible transportation in the Sarajevo area, highly recommend contacting Care390…

Just as we queued up for check in to open (which, at Sarajevo is only 2 hours prior), one received a text from Lufthansa informing us that the flight to Frankfurt had been CANCELLED and to talk to the live chat to rebook. As Sarajevo had no information regarding this, we silently went away to chat with Lufthansa online whilst watching the chaos unfolded at check in. At first, it appeared that Lufthansa had it in hand by stating that they were going to fly us to Zagreb and then Heathrow, however a few minutes later, the guy came back to us and informed us that the flight was fully booked. Out of curiosity, one checked the Croatia Airlines website and found that there were tickets available so it was decided that we would book it ourselves and claim it back from Lufthansa. The only thing was that one only had 50 minutes to connect at Zagreb hence the plane needed to depart on time.

Everything was going to plan, the check in process and security was relatively hassle free. It was at that point that the departure time began to increase. A few minutes later, one was called to the desk and informed that Croatia Airlines had a technical fault with the aircraft hence were sending a smaller plane instead which couldn’t accommodate Superbunny! Essentially, one was then stuck in Sarajevo for the night…

The next thing was to try to secure accommodation for the night, however, one had the added complication of ensuring the hotel was accessible. Earlier in the day, Lufthansa informed us that we could pick a hotel by ourselves and they would pay for it, however it transpires from the call centre that the airline would only pay for one specific hotel (this was all happening whilst a pigeon decided to do a lap of the terminal concourse!). Luckily, Care390 arrived to transport us to wherever hence it was decided that we would drive to said hotel (Hotel Hollywood) and view the ‘accessible’ room. To ones surprise, Hotel Hollywood was actually better than Hotel Holiday in terms of having a wet room meaning that a well needed shower was possible!

After a lazy morning, Care390 transported us back to the doomed terminal of Sarajevo International Airport. Unfortunately, check in and security had different staff working who were a lot less clued up on electric wheelchairs meaning that 90 minutes were spent waiting for ‘clearance’ from Lufthansa HQ. The bad news came after security when, yet again, our flight (to Vienna this time) departure time increased considerably making the connection almost impossible. I swear that Sarajevo are reluctant for people to leave the place!

Anyway, we touched down at Vienna International at 16:51pm and the flight to Heathrow was departing at 17:15pm. Due to having assistance AND two wheelchairs to transfer over, one thinks that many airports would just not try, however, Vienna were up for the challenge! Trust me, one has never seen that much efficiency and coordination between different operations before at an airport. A team of around 10 both in the terminal and on the ground were in constant communication with each other meaning that one was sat down in the seat to Heathrow at 17:09pm, that is efficiency! To add to the baggage handlers work, Sarajevo put both Superbunny and the manual wheelchair into the hold as is meaning that Vienna had to, not only pull both chairs out but also safely put them in a container (where they should be!). Despite this, the plane pushed back only 10 minutes late (plus a little runway rejigging from ATC).

That concludes ones travels for 2024, where next, who knows!

Day 4.5 (Mostar) – Old Town and Fortica

Mostar, for the most part is the tourist magnet for Bosnia and Herzegovina with its Old Town containing the famous Old Bridge. It is also located just a few hours from Dubrovnik and Split making it the perfect cruise ship excursion. It is therefore worth a look at sites such as CruiseMapper to decide what day would be best to visit, especially as some of the streets are narrow enough without hoards of tourists.

Mostar train station is located approximately 20 minutes from the centre. As you head towards the Old Town, the streets become pedestrianised with a mixture of smooth and not so smooth cobbles (just to balance each other out!) lined with restaurants…

It is then that the beginning of the Old Town comes into view. Now, one understands that cobbles are kept for authenticity, however, simply look at the below photo, for a tourist hotspot, are wheelchair users expected to roll around without any issues?

Unlike many Old Towns, the majority of cobbles are raised making for plenty of opportunities to get stuck in a wheelchair, especially in a manual chair with small wheels! Luckily, the Old Town is relatively small and in a horse shoe shape hence it doesn’t take too long to reach the famous Old Bridge. Although reconstructed in 2004 after the Bosnian War, the surface just doesn’t work for wheelchair users as you can see from the bottom of this photo…

Indeed, there was nothing for it but to physically walk up and carry the manual wheelchair, spectacular views from the top however…

As there are limited things to do in Mostar other than the Old Town and various museums, one researched things slightly outside of town and discovered the Fortica area situated high atop of a hill/mountain overlooking Mostar. Although the area contains a series of ruins, a glass walkway has been constructed jutting out from the cliff, definitely ones kind of thing! As per yesterday, we hailed down a conventional taxi and the driver agreed to wait for us at Fortica.

After twisting and turning around hairpin bends, we reached the main car park containing a restaurant and viewpoint, both of which are accessible…

To gain access to the glass walkway, it is necessary to walk down several flights of stairs, however, with the amount of exercise one is doing on this trip, a few more steps couldn’t hurt! Definitely worth it…

Although said walkway was opened in 2020, little can be said about the upkeep of the thing, several panels may need replacing soon?

Unfortunately, after this, the predicted stormy weather set in making it difficult to wander around without getting drenched. There are a few accessible museums to keep one occupied or various restaurants if that is your thing.

Tomorrow, one concludes this Bosnian adventure by flying back to Heathrow!

Day 4 (Mostar) – Bosnian Railway Experience

Bosnian Railways are not renounced for being wheelchair accessible, in fact, there is no information widely available. For this reason, one had close email contact with the railways prior to ensure that everything ran according to plan.

A few days prior to ones visit, an email was received from Sarajevo railway station with a map with directions showing the accessible route to the platforms. No need for this though as a guy (dressed in ordinary clothing may I add!) caught us at the ticket office and guided us around the back of the station onto the platforms. This part is all ramped, however the issue comes when you are required to cross the track. Rather than flush concrete or tarmac as one would expect at a level crossing, wooden slats are used with giant gaps between said slats and the rails making it very difficult to roll over in a wheelchair. It was then that our train came into view…

Now, as said trains are manufactured in Spain, one is aware of the need for a wheelchair space and a ramp to be onboard in order to comply with Spanish legislation. When questioned about this, the Railways of the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina confirmed that they did indeed have a wheelchair space onboard, however, a ramp was only available at Sarajevo and not Mostar which seemed slightly odd. In addition, when one went to board, the staff wished to lift the wheelchair which, as we know, translates to either ‘we can’t be bothered’ or ‘we have these foreign trains with a ramp but we don’t know how to use it’. Anyway, one gave them the benefit of the doubt at Sarajevo until I could scout it out for myself…

Although they placed us in first class i.e. a carriage to ourselves, one wished to just check out the wheelchair space in the next carriage and, lo and behold, a ramp was indeed present!

As one can see, there is also anchor rails should you wish to use tie down restraints, however I am presuming that they are hidden away, never to see the light of day!

Anyway, let’s talk about the journey along which is supposedly one of the worlds most scenic railway lines. As I mentioned, Sarajevo is surrounded by the Dinaric Alps and it is these that make the journey worthwhile shortly after leaving the city.

Although a large proportion of the section of track which winds its way through the Dinaric Alps is in tunnels, one can still catch glimpses of breath taking views…

Granted that the route would appear differently if a weather warning wasn’t in force, however, the above shows that it can be enjoyed in any weather.

On a side note, it is worth noting that the platforms at Sarajevo train station provide little to no lighting after dark so it is a good idea to bring a torch, especially when crossing the track!

Day 3.5 (Sarajevo) – Avast Twist Tower

The observation deck atop of Sarajevo’s tallest tower is perhaps overlooked by many, however it’s one of the more accessible things to do in the city.

Due to its close proximity to the train station, one decided to see whether we could purchase tickets for the forthcoming trip to Mostar, however it turns out that the ticket office of one of Bosnias biggest stations likes to close before the stated time. Still, one had time to have a nose around the concourse…

Now, the easiest way to reach the Avast Twist Tower is up a flight of steps (of course!) hence it is necessary for wheelchair users to brave the traffic and follow vehicles in through the car park. The tower is FREE to everyone and has your usual glass lift up to the observation deck where a bar is also located selling drinks and light snacks. In addition, the Avast Twist Tower provides panoramic views of Sarajevo surrounded by the Dinaric Alps…

On a side note, if you are looking for accessible restaurants slightly outside of the centre, highly recommend visiting Alta Shopping Centar.

Tomorrow, we take the train from Sarajevo to Mostar (exploring the famous Old Town etc) which is, supposedly, one of the worlds most scenic railway journeys. It has been very interesting booking assistance with Bosnian Railways hence one is unsure of how it will pan out. Oh and there is a weather warning out for rain and thunderstorms!

Nath