Nath, Author at The Wheelchair Traveller

Day 5 (Moldova) – Final Thoughts

To an outsider, it is possible that Moldova could be perceived as a ‘bland’ ex-Soviet country. Coupled with this, it’s geographical location has also had a detrimental effect on its tourism in recent years. However, if one overlooks this and researches this little country, you will uncover a vibrant area full of unique culture.

Granted, it is unfortunate that the very limited accessible transportation options limits the exploration, especially when using a powered wheelchair. However, the areas that Taxi48 serve in and around the capital, Chisinau certainly provides one with a glimpse of, not only city life but also the stunning countryside. Although Cricova Winery is located just outside of the city limits, the journey still offers an insight into daily life.

It is clear that, as in other less wealthy countries, strides are being made to improve accessibility. In addition to Taxi48, the majority of the bus network in the capital (including the airport connection) is now wheelchair accessible. This provides an easy way to navigate the city without the hassle of crossing Soviet roads broken pavements.

The Cricova Winery is a prime example of the countrys effort to improve accessibility for wheelchair users. Although not advertised on the website, by having an accessible vehicle, it has created an inclusive and unique underground experience.

Day 4 (Moldova) – Cricova Winery Accessibility

Located just outside the capital lies the Cricova Winery, a prime display of the countrys famous wine culture. Unlike traditional wineries around the world, Cricova is mainly underground with the complex spanning for miles. As a result, it is necessary to catch a vehicle that resembles a golf buggy as part of the tour.

Due to the fact that there was zero information regarding Cricovas accessibility for wheelchairs, one decided to leave Superbunny2 in the hotel room. However, upon arrival, it became clear that the majority of the complex has been modified to suit powered wheelchairs!

It is first necessary to ‘sign in’ at reception which has level access. If one has a long wait before the tour commences, an accessible bar is located next door (naturally!). It is then that the fun bit begins. Unbeknown to one, reception had called ahead to arrange for an accessible vehicle to be driven to the door to pick us up (remember this is Moldova with very limited private accessible transportation). Said vehicle comprised of a few seats and then a large space for wheelchairs with a ramped entrance…

Unfortunately, no tie down straps are available (which could have been useful when speeding through the tunnels!), however it is possible to position a wheelchair against the back seats.

Once inside the underground complex, the tour makes a few stops requiring individuals to walk around the tunnels. However, wherever possible, one was able to remain the vehicle and follow the crowd that way…

This also applies to the cinema room. Indeed, it is wheelchair accessible but it is also possible to watch the short film from the comfort of the vehicle, the driver can even fetch the wine for you!

It is worth noting that approximately 15% of the tour is downstairs, however, this accounts for just 10 minutes. After the tour concludes, one can pay extra for a wine tasting session. It may be prudent to let the tour guide know during the tour if you are intending to do this. The reason for this being that the majority of the tasting rooms are downstairs…

N.B. it is possible to reach Cricova either by bus or booking Taxi48’s accessible vehicle.

Day 3 (Chisinau) – Cascade Stairs Accessibility

If one was to Google Chisinau, it is highly likely that images of the Cascade Stairs. Located within the Valea Morilor Park, the structure provides panoramic views of the surrounding lake from its top. As the name implies, the structure is, essentially, a large staircase, not ideal for wheelchair users…

However, akin to the Cascade Complex in Yerevan, if one was to look closely on Satellite view, you would see various footpaths sprouting out of the structure at various heights. The question was, how many could one access?

Now, Valea Morilor Park isn’t the easiest place to access in Chisinau, the most accessible way would be by bus, although this option may take time. It was therefore decided that one would follow trusty Google Maps. It is important to note that some areas that Google identifies as roads are, essentially dirt tracks. Some of these are only accessible by navigating up grass verges.

Once one reaches Valea Morilor Park, broken pavements give way to tarmacked footpaths, perfect rolling conditions for a wheelchair user…

There are two main paths circulating the park; one containing a cycle track whilst the other hugs the edge of the lake. Crossing points are available, however, the majority contain steps meaning that it is necessary to come back on yourself at times. Of course, the latter is much more visually appealing…

Towards one corner of the Valea Morilor Park lies the Cascade Stairs. If one is rolling along the cycle path, its easy to locate the footpath that leads to the bottom level of the structure…

Unfortunately, the footpath that leads further up contains a rather large step at the bottom, too large for Superbunny2 to negotiate. As a result, one set about seeking the ‘back way’ to reach the top of said staircase (without Maps). To achieve this, it is necessary to exit the park near the structure and simply follow the road through a housing estate. Turning left at the top will bring one to a car park and, subsequently, the top of the Cascade Stairs. A ramp then leads down to that famous view…

Tomorrow, one heads slightly outside of Chisinau to one of Moldovas top attractions, the Cricova Winery. Now, there is zero information regarding its accessibility thus far hence this could be interesting…

Day 2.5 (Chisinau) – City Landmarks

Although Chisinau can be deceiving in its size, especially in the suburbs, the majority of its notable landmarks (with the exception of the Cascade Stairs) are located minutes from each other meaning one can marvel in a short space of time.

The Triumphal Arch (built in 1840) and Government House sit opposite each other within The Great National Assembly Square. It is worth noting that this is located on one of the main streets running through Chisinau meaning easy wheelchair access…

Located just behind the Triumphal Arch sits Cathedral Park containing the Metropolitan Cathedral of Christ’s Nativity and Bell Tower. It is worth noting that steps lead down from the Triumphal Arch, however, with a little navigation, ramps are easy enough to find, even if they blend in.

Now, Google states that there is a wheelchair accessible entrance to the Cathedral, however, one could only see steps. Regardless, these structures still look impressive from the exterior…

A few streets away from The Great National Assembly Square is the Chisinau Central Market, the largest in Moldova. Although steps lead up to a proportion, it is still possible to roll around the majority as a wheelchair user…

(However, a few footpaths are a little narrow!)

Tomorrow, one heads to Valea Morilor Park to explore the notable Cascade Stairs. The question is, can Superbunny2 get onto said structure?

Day 2 (Chisinau) – City Accessibility

Rolling through the streets of Chisinau very much reminded one of Yerevan, Armenia in terms of accessibility. It is common knowledge that the Moldovan economy is not the strongest and is reflected in the citys infrastructure.

The walk from the hotel into the centre takes around 30 minutes, however, this involves crossing Soviet roads (yes, that old chestnut!). In order for a wheelchair user to negotiate stepped underpasses, it is necessary to detour around a few backstreets. Backstreets in Chisinau equate to either broken pavements or dirt rather than tarmac, not great for Superbunny2! It is much easier to roll with the cars should one encounter this…

However, once one reaches the central area (including Strada Stefan Cel Mare), broken pavements give way to wide avenues, even enough space for a dedicated cycle lane making for perfect rolling conditions…

It is also worth noting that Chisinau possesses an extensive bus/trolleybus network which, for the majority is wheelchair accessible. One would highly recommend using these to your advantage as they reduce the need to navigate the Soviet road system/backstreets. The ramps are a definite improvement on some other countries…

Day 1.5 (Chisinau) – Courtyard by Marriott Hotel

As Moldova is located within Europe, one thought that seeking an accessible hotel in Chisinau would be fairly easy, appears not! Granted, international hotel chains do have a presence in the city, however, many have steps leading to the entrance with a small elevator to the side. As one has learnt, maintenance of such elevators in many Eastern European countries can be flaky. It therefore seemed prudent to seek a hotel with level access which appears rare in Chisinau.

Fortunately, the Courtyard by Marriott is a relatively new development alongside Shopping MallDova containing all you need. Despite this, the hotel only contains one wheelchair accessible room according to reservations. However, said room does have everything one needs including a very spacious wet room with a shower seat. The only downside is that there is little manoeuvring space for a wheelchair…

The plan for tomorrow is to take a roll into the city to the Central Market and marvel at Chisinaus famous landmarks.

Day 1 (Chisinau) – Airport to City Transportation

Dubbed as Europes least visited country as of 2025, the landlocked country of Moldova sandwiched between Romania and Ukraine is home to stunning landscapes, some of the worlds oldest wine cellars mixed in with Soviet-era architecture.

It’s capital, Chisinau provides direct flights to the UK and is where ones exploration begins. Although Trolleybus #30 runs into the city centre and is wheelchair accessible, it does not operate between the hours of 23:30pm and and 6am. Since ones flight arrived at 12am, it was necessary to seek out a wheelchair accessible taxi, rare in Moldova, let alone Chisinau. Fortunately Taxi48 possess one vehicle for transport within the city limits. Akin to Care390 in Sarajevo, the vehicle isn’t the biggest but serves it’s purpose…

A journey from Chisinau International Airport to the Courtyard by Marriott located in the city centre costs around 200 MDL.

N.B. When one arrived in Chisinau at 1am, the assistance stated that there was no electric wheelchair in the hold and subsequently rushed us out of the airport leading us to believe that London Luton. It was only when one turned on the eSIM halfway to the hotel that Superbunny2s AirTag popped up as being in arrivals. This means that one has to return to said airport tomorrow (Taxi48 have been very understanding) to locate said wheelchair.

Day 5 (Azerbaijan) – Final Thoughts

Azerbaijan is, perhaps, a country overlooked by many or, most likely, peered down from 30000ft on the way to popular Asian destinations such as India, Thailand and Vietnam. However, when viewed from the ground, the nickname of “the land of fire” very much plays true with the various geographical phenomenons including the Fire Mountain and various mud volcano sites.

In terms of accessibility for wheelchair users, Azerbaijan is a mixed bag. However, one feels that Baku is one of the most easiest cities to navigate in the Caucasus region. Granted, the lack of drop kerbs makes it difficult to navigate on foot (with the exception of pedestrianised areas including Nizami Street), however, the wide availability of wheelchair accessible London cab taxis means that one can roll in and go wherever they please. For example, when walking to the iconic Flame Towers, one suddenly decided to catch a taxi for the remainder of the journey, it took under 10 minutes to hail an accessible taxi.

The majority of drivers are very willing to assist with ramps etc and will not charge a premium for a wheelchair. One caveat, however is that a large proportion of taxis do not possess floor restraint equipment despite the tie down points being present (courtesy of the UK legislation). Instead, they recommend that you position the wheelchair side on against the seats which can be tricky without damaging the vehicle! This can easily be remedied by bringing your own floor restraints.

As one discovered, providing that the price is right, drivers are happy to transport you to a large proportion of the country. In addition, it is clear that accessibility is slowly being improved at tourist hotspots hence, if one is looking for an adventure, why not consider Azerbaijan?

Day 4.5 (Baku) – Yanar Dag (Fire Mountain) and Ateshgah (Fire Temple)

True to Azerbaijan’s nickname of the “land of fire”, Yanar Dag is a natural fire fuelled by a continuous seep of gas from the surface. Despite it being a tourist attraction, wheelchair users are only able to access the fire (via a ramp) and an alternative vantage point. If one wishes to explore the remainder of the site, steps need to be climbed…

Perhaps the most inaccessible of the three sites is the Ateshgah of Baku aka Fire Temple likely due to its historical structure. The grounds are on the bumpy side, however, to enter the temple, one must navigate a large step which was rather tricky in Superbunny. Once inside, one can roll around the various fires on a raised platform…

It is worth noting that the shops and restaurant at the Ateshgah of Baku all require one step to be navigated.

Day 4 (Azerbaijan) – Gobustan National Park and Mud Volcanoes

The original plan for today was to simply visit Yanar Dag, however, when booking accessible transportation with hotel, they made us aware that it was possible to hire a London cab for the entire day for an additional cost.

One took this offer as it was therefore possible to visit 2 other sites around the Baku area, the first one being Gobustan National Park. One of the notable points of interest within said park is it’s mud volcanoes. As with many geographical phenomenon’s, the site has been transformed into a tourist attraction complete with a gift shop and restaurant. Local disabled individuals can enter for FREE but foreigners must pay. However, the recent renovation means the majority of the site is now wheelchair accessible…