My next adventure: TBC

India – August 2024

Day 14 (India) – Final Thoughts

India, a melting pot of rich culture and varying landscapes. The country has always intrigued me personally but more so because there is little known to foreigners about disability and accessibility within India (what is available is mostly on the negative side). We have learnt from countries such as Armenia and Tunisia that preconceptions are deceiving and said countries turn out to be the most welcoming to disabled individuals.

Of course, the safest option when planning a trip such as India is to book with a travel agent, however, experience has told one that, because they are tied to specific suppliers of transportation and tours within a country, it becomes difficult when one wishes to use an ‘accessible’ supplier who they are unfamiliar with. It is for this reason that one went ‘solo’ when planning back in December.

Granted, one could have used an agent and took the manual wheelchair, however, the point of my travels, apart from making memories is to try and dismiss the negative information already out there and to prove that countries are actually accessible to both electric and manual wheelchairs, you simply have to adapt to their way of thinking. The main thing when planning India was to source some kind of accessible transportation to get us from A to B which is where The Swarga Foundation came in. We have learnt from Tunisia that it is common for rehabilitation centres to possess wheelchair accessible transportation for moving around patients hence The Swarga Foundation appeared after a quick Google Search. One essentially explained to the founders what we were looking to do and that we needed an accessible van which they kindly let us ‘borrow’ along with a driver for 2 weeks for a fee.

Although organisations such as Swarga and Lotus Royal Move (in Tunisia) may have not fathomed accessible tourism prior to one making contact, by working in tandem with their resources and expertise ‘on the ground’, it is possible to make it simply work. For example, one wished to book a railway journey across India on the Vande Bharat Express hence Swarga kindly liaised with Indian Railways and the local station to make the arrangements.

Anyway, what are my thoughts on India in terms of accessibility? From driving around the country in the van for 2 weeks and seeing the number of infrastructure projects taking place, it is clear that the country is developing itself rather rapidly. What is pleasing is that accessibility is at the forefront of these projects i.e. ramps and lifts being incorporated into new metro systems. In addition, a large proportion of new buildings have either level access or ramps. The main issue, as mentioned previously, is the ability to actually access these due to the lack of drop kerbs or crumbling pavements. When one was rolling around Kochi for a hour, it felt as if the pavements were the only thing making the city difficult to navigate and how, the simple act of maintaining these and by adding drop kerbs could open up a world of possibilities for wheelchair users in India. It is hoped that this is factored into the future ‘vision’ of the country, however, for now, a vehicle is certainly needed.

When it comes to the railways, it is clear that the Vande Bharat rolling stock has been a gamechanger for wheelchair users and will continue to do so over the next 25 years as they are slowly rolled out across the country. However, Indian Railways still have a way to go in terms of implementing suitable boarding ramps and accessible infrastructure at stations. It is pleasing to hear that Chennai Central is now working towards implementing a proper boarding ramp after ones visit.

As I mentioned, as of 2024, India is a rapidly developing country hence it will be interesting for one to return in a few years to witness the progress. Of course, one will be hiring our trusty van once again…

For the next adventure, one will be returning to South Eastern Europe to the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina, Sarajevo where we will also be taking ‘one of the worlds most scenic railway journeys’ to Mostar. When communicating with Bosnian Railways, one was rather confused to learn that a boarding ramp is present at Sarajevo station but not Mostar station (which is accessible via the fire exit as you do!) despite a wheelchair space being on the train. One thinks that Superbunny will be safer in the hotel room!

Day 13 (Kochi) – Tuk Tuks

A trip to India wouldn’t be complete without a ride in a tuk tuk (plus it’s on ones bucket list) hence today we planned a short round trip whilst taking in the sights of the Santa Cruz Cathedral Basilica and the Mattancherry Palace…

Perhaps one day, India will invest in wheelchair accessible tuk tuks akin to Mobilituks found in Cambodia. We will see…

As today is our last day and one had a little money left over, it was time to head down to the Chinese Fishing Nets to purchase some tat. As we approached said footpath which runs parallel to the Fishing Nets and overlooks the Arabian Sea, an individual in a electric wheelchair (the first one has seen in India) came over for a chat and proceeded to take us on a wander to another viewpoint…

Tomorrow, we head back to good old London Gatwick via Cochin International Airport concluding ones journey across Southern India. Final thoughts will be shared in the next post, however I think we have, ultimately, proved that an individual can travel across Southern India in an electric wheelchair (for the majority) given a little creativity so what is stopping you?

Day 12 (Kochi) – Kerala Backwaters

The plan for today was to explore the Backwaters of Kerala by boat. Although the hotel offer tours, one wanted something more ‘authentic’ and ‘off the beaten track’ as usual thus The Swarga Foundation kindly made a few enquiries and reserved a private houseboat. Of course, the accessibility of houseboats in Kerala is non existent currently hence Superbunny stayed in the hotel room.

Our 5 hour Backwater tour (costing 125000 rupees) began down a ‘lane’ which runs parallel to the water and the mooring place for our houseboat…

Getting on said boat was a little more dignified than the one in Lake Sevan, Armenia. Once onboard, one could sit back and marvel at the views of the Kerala Backwaters…

Around halfway through, it was time for our private lunch consisting of fish (of course), chicken and other Indian cuisine followed by hot banana soaked in batter (which one has been waiting to try since stepping foot in India)…

As we meandered our way back to the mooring point, more spectacular views presented themselves along with numerous Chinese Fishing Nets…

Perhaps, one day, there will be an accessible houseboat, however, this view will more than suffice in the meantime…

Tomorrow is our last full day exploring Southern India. One of the things on ones updated bucket list is to experience a drive in a tuk-tuk hence that is the mission for tomorrow before we attend a traditional cultural show after bumping into one of the performers on the Water Metro yesterday.

Day 11 (Kochi) – Chinese Fishing Nets and Water Metro

Today one decided to swap the van wheels for the wheels of Superbunny and wander/roll around the Fort Kochi area under our own steam. Although there are a few ‘busy’ roads (very quaint compared to Chennai though!), the area consists of many side roads and alleyways that are perfect for electric wheelchairs minus the potholes and goats…

As we wound our way through Fort Kochi, the famous Chinese Fishing Nets came into view but so did the hasslers…

The Chinese Fishing Nets are situated along a elevated footpath which can be accessed by ramps at various points. Of course, the Chinese Fishing Nets are a magnet for tourists hence said footpath is lined with stalls selling tat or trying to get you to try the Nets, do they really think that Superbunny can roll across flimsy pieces of wood (one says that but it has happened in the past i.e. Russia!)? However if you have the patience to ignore sellers, you reach a paved viewing point…

Next stop was the Kochi Water Metro which one was very excited to try with Superbunny as you can imagine! As the system only opened in 2023, all the stations possess ramps or lifts and the boats are as flush to the pontoon as humanly possible. Disabled individuals can ride for FREE…

Of course, if the water is a little choppy, said ramp (which contains a tiny step) moves a little, however the staff are on hand to keep it as still as possible allowing for a run up…

The boats interior has been designed to look similar to a metro train and has two designated wheelchair spaces positioned next to the wall for those who wish to use them…

We caught the Water Metro from Fort Kochi to High Court which is situated within the actual city of Kochi. On the way over, we were told about an accessible restaurant that we should try hence that became the objective. Bear in mind that this was the first time that one has tried to roll around the craziness of an Indian city in Superbunny without the van!

One of the main issues (which I believe is trying to be resolved) when rolling around is the width between the bollards designed to stop motorcycles from mounting the pavement, they are simply not wide enough for wheelchairs. This means that you either have to jump down onto the road or try to jump up through the vegetation to avoid these things. The other issue is the crumbling state of some pavements/drop kerbs, let’s also plonk a tree in for good measure…

What one can’t fathom is that once you reach places i.e. accessible restaurants, you either have a gleaming ramp or lift (albeit in dingy underground parking lots) ready to greet you yet its a struggle to reach said place using pavements. Of course, we are fortune enough to have a wheelchair accessible van at our disposal, however think about how many lives could be improved by simply sprucing up the pavements and drop kerbs, all the other infrastructure is there waiting for wheelchair users to use!

Tomorrow, we head out of Kochi to Kumarakom where The Swarga Foundation have reserved a private houseboat for one to explore the Kerala Backwaters.

Day 10 (Kochi) – Fragrant Nature

Today we embarked on our 5 hour trip in the wheelchair accessible van (courtesy of The Swarga Foundation) from Pollachi to our final destination, Kochi. Unfortunately, the way one had intended to travel suffered a few landslides hence was impassable so the highway it was. However as the highway is being upgraded and therefore congested, Google Maps decided to take us on another tour of rural India, this time winding our way through villages on unpaved roads…you wouldn’t get that on a touring holiday would you?

5 hours later, we arrived at The Fragrant Nature Hotel in Fort Kochi. The thin piece of land also overlooks the Arabian Sea marking the end of our coast to coast journey across India.

It was difficult trying to source an accessible hotel in Fort Kochi, however, one certainly made the correct choice booking Fragrant Nature. For the first time on this trip, one has a ‘proper’ accessible room and wet room, this is like luxury!

Unlike Chennai, the Fort Kochi area is a little more walkable (and less traffic!) hence the plan for tomorrow is to have a wander around said area visiting the famous Chinese Fishing Nets and taking a ride on India’s first water metro!

Day 9 (Pollachi) – Waterfall Tea Estate

After a lazy morning, the plan was to head up to the Waterfall Tea Estate to sample and purchase some fresh tea for one to take back to the UK, simple right? Of course not!

As I mentioned, one wanted to save money in preparation for our final destination, Kochi hence decided to book a conventional taxi. We gave the Ibex an address to drive us to, however, the taxi driver seemed to have other ideas.

In order to reach the Waterfall Tea Estate from Pollachi, you are required to drive along the interior road of the Aliyar Reserve Forest. To enter, you are required to, once again pay and show your passport. The estate is situated high above the clouds meaning that hairpin bends are plenty…

Said bends do present spectacular views however…

As we ascended higher into the clouds, the tea estate came into view. We reached the sales outlet shack where we thought that the driver would drop us off but no, he simply kept driving through the Waterfall Tea Estate…

After reaching the summit, the driver pulled over and simply said ‘We go down now’. By this time, one was a little hungry as we had expected at least some kind of food, luckily there was a roadside shack at the summit selling snacks…

It was then back down through the Aliyar Reserve Forest stopping at another roadside shack to purchase tea, not how we envisaged the day going but there we go…

Tomorrow we get our wheels back (the accessible van which has been driven back from Chennai to Coimbatore over the weekend…definitely putting the miles on that thing!) to drive another 5 hours to our final destination, Kochi on the west coast of India.

Day 8 (Pollachi) – Anamalai Tiger Reserve

To answer the all important question, no, we didn’t see any tigers on the faff of a ‘jeep’ safari, let me explain.

When booking the taxi to the Anamalai Tiger Reserve, the Ibex informed us that it is best to visit as early as possible to avoid the queues i.e. 6am. Before you enter said reserve, you are required to purchase a ticket from a roadside shack and show your passport. This only allows you to drive through a certain part of the reserve before you are required to purchase another ticket, show your passport AND visa! It was shortly after this that a monkey kindly decided to jump inside the taxi to steal the majority of food that we had substituted for breakfast.

When planning this trip, ATR informed me that the safari leaves every 2 hours or when it is full. Whilst this is true, it’s very disjointed and the ‘jeep’ safari actually uses clapped out buses instead. Its lucky that one has always wanted to ride on an old Indian bus, can’t fathom how they are used in major cities…

Anyway, just after we embarked on our 3 hour safari, the guide informed us that tiger sightings are rare, however we pressed on regardless. During our 3 hour excursion, we were fortunate to see deers, peacocks and Indian Goats roaming free…

One of the other attractions at ATR is the elephant camp which is, typically, closed for refurbishment leaving little to do. At least we got to experience the reserve for which over half is open to vehicles meaning that Superbunny could have joined.

Tomorrow we head to the Waterfalls Tea Estate in the hope of trying fresh tea. As one is attempting to save money for Kochi, we have booked a conventional taxi although it seems like it could be accessible for an electric wheelchair…

Day 7 (Pollachi) – Ibex River Resort

It’s difficult for one to fathom that just 24 hours ago, we were amongst the hustle and bustle of Chennai and now the only sounds one can hear is the tweeting of birds and crickets (and kids but we will dismiss that!).

As mentioned previously, The Swarga Foundation assisted one in booking the Ibex River Resort and ensuring that the hotel purchased ramps etc (one seems to be initiating the need to purchase ramps around the world recently?) in preparation for our arrival. The Ibex is situated within the grounds of a coconut farm and possess 14 rooms giving it a more intimate feel than your usual resort…

Although accessibility wasn’t at the forefront during construction, the rooms are pretty spacious, very easy to roll around…

Even the bathroom is rather spacious albeit a little outdated…

And you have the balcony overlooking said river…

The plan for today was to explore the resort and it’s surroundings. Unfortunately, in order to access the river, one has to navigate a fairly chunky step, far too big for the portable ramp. However, during prior research, it turns out that there is a road bridge over the river around a 15 minute walk from the resort down a few ‘lanes’…

(This photo also demonstrates the stark difference between country life compared to the cities of India!)

Tomorrow we head to Anamalai Tiger Reserve to board a jeep safari in the hope of seeing a few elephants and tigers. For the first time on this trip, Superbunny won’t be joining as the jeep is in no way accessible. Despite this, I don’t think that we are doing too bad thus far proving that you can travel the majority of Southern India in an electric wheelchair with a little creativity here and there?

Day 6 (Chennai) – The Vande Bharat Express Experience

When you think of trains in India, one might struggle to see how accessibility is integrated into it’s railways. Granted, a large proportion of trains do have a specific carriage for the disabled albeit segregated from the general population, however ramps and lifts are scarce. This was, for the most part, changed with the introduction of Vande Bharat Express trains a few years ago which has been designed to integrate wheelchair users with the general population, a big step for India. Of course, when one stumbled across these trains along with the fact that more and more stations are installing lifts, it was instantly put on the bucket list!

As the next destination on this trip is Pollachi, it was decided that one would catch the Vande Bharat from Chennai Central to Coimbatore Junction where another Swarga Foundation vehicle would transport us to the Ibex River Resort. Luckily, we were able to book tickets via Swarga, however I was told that the wheelchair space was difficult to reserve.

Contrary to the craziness of Chennai, it’s station was fairly quiet and easy to roll around, one even had time for a little trainspotting…

However, the Vande Bharat Express stood out above the rest…

Now, Chennai Central claimed to have boarding ramps available, however, when our driver enquired about said ramp, the usual response of ‘not possible, just lift it’ was given which normally translates to ‘we can’t be bothered’. This was proved correct when one was sitting on the platform staring at said train when a ramp magically appeared…

Still, one doesn’t believe that the correct ramp was brought but we made it work with Superbunny’s own portable ramp acting as a run up…

The interior of the Vande Bharat Express harks back to the much loved HST in the UK, hence one felt quite at home sitting in the wheelchair space…

During the 6.5 hour journey, one was treated to a plethora of Indian tea and (rather hot!) cuisine whilst the scenery changed into more mountainous terrain…

We were then welcomed into Coimbatore Junction by the founders and members of The Swarga Foundation (and proper boarding ramps)…

We are staying slightly outside of Pollachi at the Ibex River Resort which is nestled within a coconut and cocoa farm with superb views of the river from each balcony. Prior to ones arrival, The Swarga Foundation kindly visited and the hotel agreed to adjust to suit ones requirements i.e. purchasing ramps and offering room service if needed.

The plan for tomorrow is to simply get acquainted with the hotel and it’s peaceful surroundings, definitely a contrast from the chaos of Chennai!

Day 4 (Chennai) – Railway Museum

As ones ancestors used to work on the Indian Railways, it only seemed right to visit the Railway Museum in Chennai before we board the Vande Bharat Express to Coimbatore Junction on Friday.

The museum costs 40 rupees (37p) to enter, however, disabled individuals can enter for free. The exhibits are both placed inside and outside, the latter makes for smooth rolling…

Part of the museum contains a giant train set (love a good train set!), however it does have a step to enter but nothing a wheelie or a portable ramp could rectify…

It was at this point that a worker decided to begin filming one rolling around said train set, who knows where that will end up!

Information and a model of the Vande Bharat Express (Indias newest train model with all the latest mod cons) is also on display. It was delightful to see that a picture of the wheelchair space with information was also included…

The plan for tomorrow was to head down to Puducherry, however a dodgy stomach (courtesy of the hotel staff rushing out our food) means that a rest day is in order before we head out of Chennai to the next destination, Pollachi (via Coimbatore Junction) by ways of the Vande Bharat Express.

This is going to be exciting!!

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