My next adventure: TBC

Kochi – August 2024

Day 14 (India) – Final Thoughts

India, a melting pot of rich culture and varying landscapes. The country has always intrigued me personally but more so because there is little known to foreigners about disability and accessibility within India (what is available is mostly on the negative side). We have learnt from countries such as Armenia and Tunisia that preconceptions are deceiving and said countries turn out to be the most welcoming to disabled individuals.

Of course, the safest option when planning a trip such as India is to book with a travel agent, however, experience has told one that, because they are tied to specific suppliers of transportation and tours within a country, it becomes difficult when one wishes to use an ‘accessible’ supplier who they are unfamiliar with. It is for this reason that one went ‘solo’ when planning back in December.

Granted, one could have used an agent and took the manual wheelchair, however, the point of my travels, apart from making memories is to try and dismiss the negative information already out there and to prove that countries are actually accessible to both electric and manual wheelchairs, you simply have to adapt to their way of thinking. The main thing when planning India was to source some kind of accessible transportation to get us from A to B which is where The Swarga Foundation came in. We have learnt from Tunisia that it is common for rehabilitation centres to possess wheelchair accessible transportation for moving around patients hence The Swarga Foundation appeared after a quick Google Search. One essentially explained to the founders what we were looking to do and that we needed an accessible van which they kindly let us ‘borrow’ along with a driver for 2 weeks for a fee.

Although organisations such as Swarga and Lotus Royal Move (in Tunisia) may have not fathomed accessible tourism prior to one making contact, by working in tandem with their resources and expertise ‘on the ground’, it is possible to make it simply work. For example, one wished to book a railway journey across India on the Vande Bharat Express hence Swarga kindly liaised with Indian Railways and the local station to make the arrangements.

Anyway, what are my thoughts on India in terms of accessibility? From driving around the country in the van for 2 weeks and seeing the number of infrastructure projects taking place, it is clear that the country is developing itself rather rapidly. What is pleasing is that accessibility is at the forefront of these projects i.e. ramps and lifts being incorporated into new metro systems. In addition, a large proportion of new buildings have either level access or ramps. The main issue, as mentioned previously, is the ability to actually access these due to the lack of drop kerbs or crumbling pavements. When one was rolling around Kochi for a hour, it felt as if the pavements were the only thing making the city difficult to navigate and how, the simple act of maintaining these and by adding drop kerbs could open up a world of possibilities for wheelchair users in India. It is hoped that this is factored into the future ‘vision’ of the country, however, for now, a vehicle is certainly needed.

When it comes to the railways, it is clear that the Vande Bharat rolling stock has been a gamechanger for wheelchair users and will continue to do so over the next 25 years as they are slowly rolled out across the country. However, Indian Railways still have a way to go in terms of implementing suitable boarding ramps and accessible infrastructure at stations. It is pleasing to hear that Chennai Central is now working towards implementing a proper boarding ramp after ones visit.

As I mentioned, as of 2024, India is a rapidly developing country hence it will be interesting for one to return in a few years to witness the progress. Of course, one will be hiring our trusty van once again…

For the next adventure, one will be returning to South Eastern Europe to the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina, Sarajevo where we will also be taking ‘one of the worlds most scenic railway journeys’ to Mostar. When communicating with Bosnian Railways, one was rather confused to learn that a boarding ramp is present at Sarajevo station but not Mostar station (which is accessible via the fire exit as you do!) despite a wheelchair space being on the train. One thinks that Superbunny will be safer in the hotel room!

Day 13 (Kochi) – Tuk Tuks

A trip to India wouldn’t be complete without a ride in a tuk tuk (plus it’s on ones bucket list) hence today we planned a short round trip whilst taking in the sights of the Santa Cruz Cathedral Basilica and the Mattancherry Palace…

Perhaps one day, India will invest in wheelchair accessible tuk tuks akin to Mobilituks found in Cambodia. We will see…

As today is our last day and one had a little money left over, it was time to head down to the Chinese Fishing Nets to purchase some tat. As we approached said footpath which runs parallel to the Fishing Nets and overlooks the Arabian Sea, an individual in a electric wheelchair (the first one has seen in India) came over for a chat and proceeded to take us on a wander to another viewpoint…

Tomorrow, we head back to good old London Gatwick via Cochin International Airport concluding ones journey across Southern India. Final thoughts will be shared in the next post, however I think we have, ultimately, proved that an individual can travel across Southern India in an electric wheelchair (for the majority) given a little creativity so what is stopping you?

Day 12 (Kochi) – Kerala Backwaters

The plan for today was to explore the Backwaters of Kerala by boat. Although the hotel offer tours, one wanted something more ‘authentic’ and ‘off the beaten track’ as usual thus The Swarga Foundation kindly made a few enquiries and reserved a private houseboat. Of course, the accessibility of houseboats in Kerala is non existent currently hence Superbunny stayed in the hotel room.

Our 5 hour Backwater tour (costing 125000 rupees) began down a ‘lane’ which runs parallel to the water and the mooring place for our houseboat…

Getting on said boat was a little more dignified than the one in Lake Sevan, Armenia. Once onboard, one could sit back and marvel at the views of the Kerala Backwaters…

Around halfway through, it was time for our private lunch consisting of fish (of course), chicken and other Indian cuisine followed by hot banana soaked in batter (which one has been waiting to try since stepping foot in India)…

As we meandered our way back to the mooring point, more spectacular views presented themselves along with numerous Chinese Fishing Nets…

Perhaps, one day, there will be an accessible houseboat, however, this view will more than suffice in the meantime…

Tomorrow is our last full day exploring Southern India. One of the things on ones updated bucket list is to experience a drive in a tuk-tuk hence that is the mission for tomorrow before we attend a traditional cultural show after bumping into one of the performers on the Water Metro yesterday.

Day 11 (Kochi) – Chinese Fishing Nets and Water Metro

Today one decided to swap the van wheels for the wheels of Superbunny and wander/roll around the Fort Kochi area under our own steam. Although there are a few ‘busy’ roads (very quaint compared to Chennai though!), the area consists of many side roads and alleyways that are perfect for electric wheelchairs minus the potholes and goats…

As we wound our way through Fort Kochi, the famous Chinese Fishing Nets came into view but so did the hasslers…

The Chinese Fishing Nets are situated along a elevated footpath which can be accessed by ramps at various points. Of course, the Chinese Fishing Nets are a magnet for tourists hence said footpath is lined with stalls selling tat or trying to get you to try the Nets, do they really think that Superbunny can roll across flimsy pieces of wood (one says that but it has happened in the past i.e. Russia!)? However if you have the patience to ignore sellers, you reach a paved viewing point…

Next stop was the Kochi Water Metro which one was very excited to try with Superbunny as you can imagine! As the system only opened in 2023, all the stations possess ramps or lifts and the boats are as flush to the pontoon as humanly possible. Disabled individuals can ride for FREE…

Of course, if the water is a little choppy, said ramp (which contains a tiny step) moves a little, however the staff are on hand to keep it as still as possible allowing for a run up…

The boats interior has been designed to look similar to a metro train and has two designated wheelchair spaces positioned next to the wall for those who wish to use them…

We caught the Water Metro from Fort Kochi to High Court which is situated within the actual city of Kochi. On the way over, we were told about an accessible restaurant that we should try hence that became the objective. Bear in mind that this was the first time that one has tried to roll around the craziness of an Indian city in Superbunny without the van!

One of the main issues (which I believe is trying to be resolved) when rolling around is the width between the bollards designed to stop motorcycles from mounting the pavement, they are simply not wide enough for wheelchairs. This means that you either have to jump down onto the road or try to jump up through the vegetation to avoid these things. The other issue is the crumbling state of some pavements/drop kerbs, let’s also plonk a tree in for good measure…

What one can’t fathom is that once you reach places i.e. accessible restaurants, you either have a gleaming ramp or lift (albeit in dingy underground parking lots) ready to greet you yet its a struggle to reach said place using pavements. Of course, we are fortune enough to have a wheelchair accessible van at our disposal, however think about how many lives could be improved by simply sprucing up the pavements and drop kerbs, all the other infrastructure is there waiting for wheelchair users to use!

Tomorrow, we head out of Kochi to Kumarakom where The Swarga Foundation have reserved a private houseboat for one to explore the Kerala Backwaters.

Day 10 (Kochi) – Fragrant Nature

Today we embarked on our 5 hour trip in the wheelchair accessible van (courtesy of The Swarga Foundation) from Pollachi to our final destination, Kochi. Unfortunately, the way one had intended to travel suffered a few landslides hence was impassable so the highway it was. However as the highway is being upgraded and therefore congested, Google Maps decided to take us on another tour of rural India, this time winding our way through villages on unpaved roads…you wouldn’t get that on a touring holiday would you?

5 hours later, we arrived at The Fragrant Nature Hotel in Fort Kochi. The thin piece of land also overlooks the Arabian Sea marking the end of our coast to coast journey across India.

It was difficult trying to source an accessible hotel in Fort Kochi, however, one certainly made the correct choice booking Fragrant Nature. For the first time on this trip, one has a ‘proper’ accessible room and wet room, this is like luxury!

Unlike Chennai, the Fort Kochi area is a little more walkable (and less traffic!) hence the plan for tomorrow is to have a wander around said area visiting the famous Chinese Fishing Nets and taking a ride on India’s first water metro!

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