My next adventure: Valletta (Malta) – May 2024

Nath

Day 10 – Modernist Helsinki

Before I start banging on about Helsinki, I keep forgetting to write about the so called “white nights” phenomenon that we have had the pleasure of experiencing over the past few days. Basically this is when the sun sets at some ungodly hour (think it’s around 12 30am) only to rise again 2/3 hours later so effectively you are sleeping in broad daylight, messes around with your body clock I must say!

Anyway, Helsinki, for some unknown reason when I visualise of the city, I think modern architecture. This is partly true, however, there are sights i.e. old brick churches mixed in too and it works surprisingly well.

As usual, we docked at the port around 2 miles from the centre so decided to scrap the “walking into the centre” idea and simply stroll around the various harbors. Despite this, it actually turns out that the road we were walking along ends up in the centre anyway hence that’s where we ended up.

I think I have said this 2 or 3 times on this trip alone, however, the city is home to it’s own tram network, just like all the rest, it depends upon the rolling stock as to whether it is accessible.

We were also lucky enough to be in Helsinki on market day, this not only provides fresh fruit and vegetables but also a wide range of souvenirs, very appealing to my PAs, not so much me with a million seagulls swooping up and down!

Tomorrow is yet another day at sea (think we all need a break after 5 consecutive days of visiting new places!) before we dock at our final port of call, Gdynia in Poland (well it’s only supposed to be the porting city for Gdansk, however, attempting to source a wheelchair accessible taxi company who speak English is impossible, Gdynia looks nice though!) on Wednesday 🙂

Day 8 & 9 – Rolling Around St Petersburg

Before I begin writing about my two day stopover in St Petersburg, Russia, the thought struck me earlier that I forgot to talk about the public transportation accessibility in Tallinn! The city possesses it’s own tram and bus network; akin to many European cities i.e. Budapest, the trams are a little hit and miss with only the newer rolling stock having low floor access, however, the majority of buses have this feature.

Anyway, back to yesterday and our first day in St Petersburg. As I mentioned in the previous post, we chose to tour with I Love Travel after reading Cory Lee’s experience with the company. A lovely lady met us outside the cruise terminal and whisked us away into the city passing some of it’s famous landmarks such as The Winter Palace and The Peter and Paul Fortress…

After stopping off to purchase souvenirs and grabbing a bite to eat (Sushi in Russia – why not!), we headed down to the pier to board the accessible boat for a river tour. Now, when watching the video on Cory’s blog, I noted a nice metal ramp being put into place to bridge the gap between the pier and the boat itself strong enough to sustain the weight of an electric wheelchair but for me, a piece of plywood, someone could of broke that with their own weight…wasn’t even funny and took a glass of whisky back on the ship to recover from my near drowning experience! The positive side to this, however, is that you do get a whole new perspective of the city from the water…

As I mentioned we had two days in Russia which is the furthest point on the cruise hence today our tour guide took us to visit the Peterhof Palace. Peterhof is located just outside the city and is commonly referred to as the “Russian Versailles” with the inspiration, as implied, taken from the city of Versailles by Peter The Great.

The grounds are mostly accessible albeit a little bumpy and comprises of many fountains (including a ‘trick’ fountain with the idea being that standing on the wrong stone triggers a fountain of water, however, in reality it’s just a guy standing behind a bush pushing a few buttons!).

Peterhof also backs on to the Baltic Sea (or the Gulf of Finland to be exact) hence offers great views, especially towards the Lakhta Centre which is currently under construction but will become the tallest building in Europe…how exciting!

All in all (bar the near drowning experience), I Love Travel is a great company to tour the city with, very knowledgeable and will do their upmost to assist wheelchair users.

Tomorrow, we begin our very slow journey back to the UK stopping off at Helsinki. If we dock at the correct port, we should be in very close proximity to the centre but who knows 🙂

Day 7 – The Old Town vs New Town (Tallinn)

I must say that leaving Stockholm last night through the fjords was probably one of the most awesome views from a cruise ship thus far! We also learnt that Estonia (our port of call for today) is actually 2 hours ahead of the UK rather than 1 as previously thought…fun fact right there!

Anyway, I’m pleased to say that we docked in Tallinn at the planned port meaning it was a mere 15 – 20 walk to the Old Town in the heart of the city…

Akin to Bruges, the majority of the Old Town comprises of cobbled streets and drop curbs are scarce making it a nightmare for Superbunny plus the pavements become very tight at points! However, if you look beyond this, the area does have stunning architecture, one of my PAs likened it to Disneyland!

Now, financial districts, yes I know that I have a thing for them everywhere I go but they do have their uses as on this occasion. As you might expect reading the above, nearly all the shops and restaurants in the Old Town have steps whereas the New Town with all it’s glass skyscrapers doesn’t thus that’s where we eat.

The New Town is in stark contrast with smooth pavements and drop curbs as you would expect making it much easier to roll around…

Before my laptop battery completely dies, tomorrow we dock in St Petersburg where we will spend 2 days (Saturday and Sunday) touring the city with ‘I Love Travel’ including an accessible boat tour which should be an experience 🙂

Day 5 & 6 – Open Seas (Round 2) and A Swedish Walk in The Forest

It was yet another day at sea yesterday thus giving time to gym it with a visit to the jacuzzi for a finish, oh and watching a NATO warship exercise from afar. I think we are quite lucky on this Baltic cruise as the ship appears to be only half full meaning that if you wish to visit the gym or go for a swim, you can unlike the Caribbean cruise a few years back where you were fighting for space in the pool etc.

This morning we docked in the Swedish capital, Stockholm. Unlike Copenhagen, it is situated within walking distance of the centre (if you know where your going unlike us!). We began our meander into the centre with Superbunny by following some fellow passengers who turned out to be lost too, in fact, I’m pretty sure we did a massive circle! On consultation of Google Maps, it turned out that we still had a 45 minute walk ahead of us and it was at this point that we ditched the ‘walking into the centre’ plan. When I researched Stockholm prior to the cruise. I discovered that the city possesses a TOWER quite close to the port and it was this that became the foundation of our new plan. In order to get to the  Kaknäs Tower, it was necessary to traverse through essentially a wood or a forest, quite surreal considering it’s in the middle of the city!

The tower itself stands majestically on it’s hill and offers panoramic views, quite cheap too, around £6 pp.

On reflection of this Baltic cruise, it seems that it may have been better to have a private tour guide picking us up directly from port as it has become clear that, unlike the Caribbean, the ports are much further out of town…oh well, always a next time! Saying that, we have a tour booked for St Petersburg and sourcing one as we speak for Helsinki on Monday (fingers crossed!!).

Tomorrow, we dock in Tallinn, Estonia where the port seems to be in proximity to the centre but, as we have clearly found out today, maps lie so will be…interesting! 🙂

Day 3 & 4 – Open Seas and The Danish Capital (again!)

Firstly, I must point out that we do not have Wifi on the ship (well we do, however, it is $70 per 100 minutes used and I ain’t paying that!) hence we are simply using 4G when we are in port!

Anyway, back to yesterday when we had a full day at sea. I have become to enjoy these days as it forces you to just stop rather than rushing around lots of places tiring yourself (as well as PAs!) out. I think the majority of yesterday consisted of lying in bed listening to music/books, oh and visiting the gym (yes, for those who don’t know, I have joined the gym back home!) with a showing of The Greatest Showman on top deck to round the day off!

Today was the turn of visiting the Danish capital, Copenhagen, sound familiar? As we spent 4 days here last year, the plan was to take a leisurely stroll into town and visit what we missed i.e. a walk around Nyhavn and The Opera House. Now this is me your talking about, nothing ever seems to go to plan! We woke up this morning expecting ourselves to be docked nearish to the Opera House but no, we seemed to be docked in a cross-between industrial estate and barren wasteland some 7 mile away with the only real option to hop on the shuttle bus. In the UK, especially in Bristol where you have Avonmouth docks, you see conventional coaches with no wheelchair access to and from the city centre. We therefore thought it best to leave Superbunny to the confines of the ship and head out in the manual. A thought then crossed my mind, this ship is full of people with mobility scooters so how were they supposed to get to the centre? Unbeknown to us, the cruise line laid on accessible transport for just that purpose!

The one thing I remember Denmark (and I think Sweden has similar) in terms of accessibility is that for many of the pavements that are cobbled, they have essentially wheel lanes comprising of concrete slabs making for smooth riding. We headed down to Nyhavn to grab lunch, it needs to be noted that many restaurants in this area have steps either up or down so eating al fresco is the only viable option or, in my case, be carried down a flight of stairs!

Tomorrow is another day at sea, plan is for a little gyming and swimming before we dock in Stockholm (if we make it!!) on Thursday 😊

Day 2 – Belgium’s Hidden Gem (Bruges)

…and there goes the horn signaling our departure from Zeebrugge!

Bruges, the so-called hidden gem of Belgium. As mentioned in the previous post, a taxi was necessary to transport us from the port of Zeebrugge into the centre. We chose to use a company called Hendricks Taxis (well they seem to be the only company in Bruges to have a wheelchair accessible taxi!!), however, little did we know that taxis are not allowed in the actual port area! After chatting to a very nice guy on the dock, he radioed through and allowed the driver to literally drive up to the ship, we were then all set for the short journey into the city…famous last words!!!

Now, when the taxi aka van left portside, the sat nav informed us that we would arrive at 10 13am. This time came and guess where we were…the middle of the Belgium countryside driving through little villages! I think the whole palaver was due to this brand new road linking the port to the city not registering on the system hence a very confused sat nav.

In terms of accessibility, Bruges reminded me a lot of Reykjavik in Iceland, your main chain shops and restaurants i.e. Carrefour are all level and accessible, however, if you are seeking something more local, bar the few odd buildings here and there, you have no chance! The majority of shops and restaurants have steps and even when there is level access, the doors are quite tight and much too narrow for Superbunny resulting in lunch at Burger King, that was another palaver! The seating area was upstairs so common sense prevails to install a passenger lift but no, the delivery lift in this BK is the preferred choice of elevation and, shock horror, it broke on the way back down meaning a swift trip to the kitchen was necessary for a reboot.

We were lucky enough to be dropped off in the main square meaning that all the sighs were within walking distance but beware, certainly the centre of Bruges is mainly cobble stones so a bumpy ride but definitely worth a visit!

Our taxi driver seemed to find the correct way back to the ship which took 20 minutes rather than an hour! Tomorrow we have a day at sea and then the next port of call on Tuesday is Copenhagen… Again! Hopefully we will see the little mermaid this time rather than being stuck on a tour bus trying to find it 😊

Day 1 – A Jolly Old Safety Video Aboard The Sapphire Princess

Something felt not quite right today as we headed down to Southampton to begin our 2 week Baltic Cruise aboard the Sapphire Princess, perhaps I associate traveling now with flying from Heathrow, Gatwick or even Bristol! The thought that you can travel to Russia by boat from the UK is one of which I had never thought of before now.

Anyway, we chose to purchase cruise parking on a ‘meet and greet’ basis enabling us to simply drive the van to the terminal and then the guys take care of the rest! Now, I’m not being ageist here (honestly!) but it is common knowledge that cruises are mainly targeted at (BTW we are now sailing through Portsmouth as I type), shall we say…the older generation? This thought stuck with me as we made our way through the terminal and onto the majestic ship, I would say, bar from a few kids, we are some of the youngest on here! Nonetheless our staterooms (albeit a little outdated) are majestic, here’s the view from my balcony…

It was at this point that one of my PA’s discovered a joyous safety video on our TV. You get all sorts these days but this one seems to top that. Think of a Disney song but then a bit of a cheese whilst conveying a meaningful message of what to do if the boat was to sink (what a thought to have).

Our first port of call tomorrow is Bruges in Belgium, however the ship docks in a neighbouring village meaning a taxi is necessary to travel to the centre so we will see how that goes!

Day 4 – The JFK Airport Experience

The prospect of spending another seven hours on a plane dawned on me as soon as I woke at 5:45 am this morning. Before I go any further, I will quickly give you a low down on the hotel that we stayed at…

We stayed at the Hotel Pennsylvania which you have probably gathered by now is across the street from Penn Station. When I booked it on hotels.com, it was rated as 2 stars so I wasn’t expecting anything fancy. I was quite surprised when I entered my room as it had a large space between the bed and the wetroom so plenty of room for Superbunny to play. The wetroom was accessible with a roll-in shower and a bench-like shower seat. It was perhaps one of the biggest rooms that I have stayed in thus far despite it being 2 star!! The best way to describe the hotel floors would be to liken it to the scene of Ghostbusters with long corridors with white walls in need of a lick of paint!!

Anyway, where was I, oh yeah JFK! So despite it being 6:30 am it took all of 5 minutes to flag down a wheelchair accessible cab to take us to the airport. Over the past couple of days, I have noticed the amount of wheelchair accessible yellow taxis seems to be on the rise which is a good sign. We had a slight problem at JFK as the woman had quite poor English so explaining the concept of checking in a wheelchair was difficult but luckily a guy came to the rescue! One thing to note about terminal 1 of JFK is that there’s little in the way of breakfast food bar some wraps. Nonetheless we reached the gate around an hour before boarding, and then we waited and waited and waited… the crew were about an hour late on top of delaying the flight for about an hour and a quarter! Although we booked with Norwegian Air, we flew back with a Spanish airline called Womas Air (which Norwegian Air subcontracted) and we soon found out that there were no TV’s or anything on the plane. However, probably to counteract this, we were fed lunch and tea. Spanish airlines means a Spanish pilot and it seemed that he was making it up as he went along as one minute we were meant to land at London in Gatwick in 40 minutes and then the next the plane started its approach!

The UK has been experiencing a polar vortex all week with a red warning not to travel upon our return and as a result it took 4 hours to return to Bristol at around 5:30 am!

As I said, my next adventure consists of cruising around the Baltics from the 2nd to the 16th June visiting Belgium, Denmark, Sweden, Finland, Russia, Estonia and Poland so see you then 🙂

Day 3 – Rolling Around New York

Just as my body clock is adjusting to New York time (5 hours behind GMT) it will be time to go home tomorrow!! Anyway, this morning was slightly better waking up at 6:15 am… I guess that’s two hours more sleep!

We headed back to Penn Station after grabbing breakfast with a vision of catching subway line E directly down to the World Trade Centre or Freedom Tower. Now, I was unaware that the Long Island Railroad is separate from the conventional subway network thus I mistakenly bought said tickets and then realised when the barrier declined the tickets and someone shouted that you need a subway ticket and not a Railroad ticket!! It needs to be noted that most ticket barriers in New York do not have disabled gates unlike the London Underground, instead you either need to scan your ticket and then open the fire exit gate or ask someone to open it from the other side which would probably be a little bit tricky if you were on your own. Down on the platform,  I saw that they have installed platform humps since my last visit which raises the platform to the level of the train making it flush.

Once on the train. I had a mild panic as the display said that the World Trade Centre subway was not accessible even though the website said that it was! As a result we decided to disembark at the closest accessible station and walk the rest of the way which was about 30 minutes.

The observation deck in the Freedom Tower is pretty new and therefore quite touristy. You would expect from a conventional observation deck to simply enter a lift up to the top, observe the view and come back down, no, not the World Trade Centre. Before you were allowed to enter the observation deck you are subject to a short talk about how use your iPad to find out more information whilst you are up there and then a five minute video about how New York has changed over the years eventually revealing the New York skyline behind it.

The observation deck itself is a conventional 360 degree circular walkway…

The Freedom Tower is now connected to the World Trade Centre Transportation Hub which is where we found ourselves when reached the base of the tower. The Transportation Hub connects many subway lines from all over Manhattan and the surrounding areas so as you can imagine it’s rather confusing to say the least! The signage does not help one bit as it tells you to go one way and then vanishes, however, there was the sign for subway line E so we followed that as my theory was that because it is a pretty new building then surely the subway would be accessible? After many elevator rides, we discovered that there was a flight of steps up rendering it useless, however, on the way out we passed another subway entrance with a symbol for line E and some helpful American explained to us that they have recently opened a passageway from one of the other subway lines to where we wanted to go… god knows how you’re meant to know that if you’re not local!! It then dawned on us that this subway station has not been fitted with any platforms humps as yet resulting in quite a step up to the train but, of course, Superbunny is used to this so it merely took a wheelie and it was all fine!

To celebrate our last night in America, we decided to head down to Times Square and Ellen’s Stardust diner, if you haven’t read my American blog from 2014, this diner isn’t any old diner in the sense that all of the waiters are either training to be on Broadway of have actually been on Broadway. Each waiter takes in turn to sing perhaps a famous song or a song from a musical, I highly recommend it if you are ever in New York City!

Tomorrow is a 5:45 am start to take a cab back to JFK International Airport to catch the flight back to London Gatwick, how fun 🙂

Day 2 – Rolling Around Philadelphia

You would of thought by now that my body clock would be used to different time zones considering the places I have travelled to, clearly not as I woke around 4:15am this morning!

Anyway, when I booked our cheap hotel (which I will give you the low down on tomorrow), I conveniently paid for breakfast so we could simply get up and go, however, we all know by now, nothing is ever simple when your with me! We searched around the hotel for breakfast but to no avail so resorted to a diner just around the corner which serves typically American breakfast foods, pancakes etc.

It was then time to begin our American train experience as we crossed the road entering Penn station. New York Penn station has multiple levels, however, the signs are pretty simple directing you where to go, failing that there is good old information desks! If your catching the Acela, you are entitled to enter the designated seating area which is also where the ‘The Red Cap’ desk is located. The ‘Red Caps’ provide the usual assistance getting on and off trains as in any other country. You may remember that I caught a VIA Canadian train a few years back and a lift was used to get me and Superbunny on and off so I was a little surprised when they brought out a tiny little ramp. It became clear as the Acela Express came in that the train was almost flush with the platform (even lower than the new IET’s that have just been introduced in the UK) thus the ramp was merely to bridge the gap…

Now when I booked the train a few weeks ago, I’m pretty sure that I requested all 3 of us to be sat together, however, something must of got lost in translation as it transpired that I was in First Class on my own and my 2 PAs were down the other end in Business Class (that will teach me for not checking the E-ticket prior!). No matter though as it was just like my weekly train trip to Oxford! As usual, I made friends with some of the train crew as we approached Philadelphia chatting about how I’m from England, the current weather situation etc.

After a swift exit from 34th Street station, we headed towards our first port of call, The Eastern State Penitentiary making a slight diversion to visit the Benjamin Franklin Parkway and the famous ‘Rocky Steps’…

The use of Google Maps always comes in handy whilst I’m on my travels and non more so to get us to the Eastern State Penitentiary, it also gave us an insight into the Philadelphia way of life as we made our way through housing estates…

It’s hard not to miss the high walls of the Penitentiary as you get closer to the entrance. Usually visitors have to enter through a side entrance, however, as it contains a flight of steps, I was fortunate enough to enter the Penitentiary through the iron gates and get a view of what the first thing that a prisoner would have seen…

The Penitentiary itself has been left as it was when the last prisoner left with paint falling off the walls and bits of rubble falling down from the ceiling (of course these areas are blocked off from the public!), bar some ramps to make most of the attraction accessible. You may ask why they haven’t tidied it up, the answer to that lies on a display board which explains that they wish to keep it as it is for an authentic feel…

Even though we spent around 2 hours there, you could easily spend a whole day just walking around each corridor.

As I said in the itinerary I wanted to experience a genuine Philly Cheesesteak  and Google strikes again in finding a restaurant close to the Penitentiary. When I looked at it on street view, it didn’t look a dodgy area but in reality it was, I guess it could be worse, it could’ve been in Chicago. Also the restaurant was more like a takeaway where the seating area had picnic tables attached to it but it did not detract from the overall food experience.

The plan was to catch the subway into town however as we were running out of time we thought it would be easier just to walk to the downtown area and visit the observation deck at One Liberty Place or see Philly From The Top as it’s sometimes referred to.  As with many towers, it offered spectacular views across Philadelphia and, in particular, the Comcast tower which is the tallest in the city… Fun fact for the day!

No trip to America would be complete for me without visiting a Cheesecake Factory so this is exactly what we did before catching the train back, oh, and purchasing some Philadelphia Eagles merchandise.

As at Penn Station, the Red Cap assisted me onto the train. I have just realised that I haven’t wrote about the actual on-board experience for a wheelchair. The trains in American and Canada are on a wider gauge meaning that the train has extra space in the corridor so it’s easier to move about, however the wheelchair space is situated opposite another seat and table so effectively you’re backing onto the seat behind you. As on the Beijing subway, there are floor restraints available but Superbunny is able to hold its own. As it was dark on the way back to New York, it felt like my weekly train trip back from Oxford and a perfect time to do Mindfulness. However, my PA’s were having a totally different experience with one of the train crew hassling them to check up on me even though they repeatedly said that I was fine!!

Tomorrow we stay in New York City and the plan is to catch the subway from Penn Station down to the tallest building in the western hemisphere, the World Trade Centre or The Freedom Tower as it’s commonly referred to before heading to Ellen’s Stardust diner because, let’s face it, no trip to New York will be complete without a visit 🙂

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