One of the reasons why Sarajevo needed to be rolled around was to visit the famous abandoned bobsled track built for the 1984 Winter Olympics and located on Trebevic Mountain. There are many ways of reaching said location, however, the easiest option from the city centre is via cable car. Fortunately enough, the system was overhauled a few years ago making it completely wheelchair accessible!
When approaching the bottom station by foot from the centre, it is likely that you will be greeted by a flight of steps. It is therefore necessary for wheelchair users to follow vehicles in through the car park (involving a rather steep hill!) to reach the ramped entrance…
It seems to be at the ticket offices discretion whether disabled individuals can ride for free and then a lift awaits to take you up to the boarding area. As new cars were installed as part of the overhaul, level access is possible and benches can be flipped up to make more space if needed…
In addition to transporting one up Trebevic, it also provides panoramic views over Sarajevo…
Stepping outside of the top station (which includes a café and terrace), one is greeted by a rather precarious mental ramp which was, presumably an afterthought as it is highly doubtful that it would pass most countries health and safety inspection! A map then signposts you to the location of the abandoned bobsled track…
Now, this is us so we made the decision to lift Superbunny onto a level (ish) piece of track and see if it could be driven down the thing and around it’s curved bends…(Please don’t try this in a wheelchair simply because it’s on here, you will likely get stuck!)
The plan for tomorrow is to visit the Tunnel of Hope located near the airport followed by a trip up Sarajevos tallest building, Avaz Twist Tower.
One is unsure whether trekking across India last month has made the presence of pavements a welcome sight, however, it is a relief to be rolling down them rather than the road. Like Zagreb, the majority of the centre comprises of either wide pavements or pedestrianised zones…
As the city centre is relatively small, it’s possible to wander around the man sights including the Sacred Heart Cathedral in a matter of minutes rather than hours. Of course, there are reminders of the Bosnian War around every corner whether that be bullet holes or the Sarajevo Roses found on the sites of mortar shell explosions…
Just a stones throw away from the centre is the Old Town with streets lined full of boutique shops and restaurants, some accessible, some not…
After a short roll over relatively smooth cobbles, you will, no doubt end up in Pigeon Square, one of the most famous areas, worst nightmare more like! Despite this, one did what he could for the experience…
As one needed to return to the hotel to collect a few things before we headed up to Trebevic Mountain, it was decided that we would sample the tram network. As I implied yesterday, a new fleet of low floor trams have been introduced alongside the existing vehicles hence it is necessary to wait until a new vehicle to come along before you can roll on in a wheelchair. Although many of the stops have raised platforms, there are some where the onboard ramp is necessary, drivers seem very happy to assist…
When you think of Bosnia and Herzegovina, images of the Bosnian War may come to mind masking the fact that the country is actually home to some of the worlds best scenery thanks to the Dinaric Alps. It maybe for this reason, in addition to the lack of information regarding accessibility that it is often overlooked by disabled travellers. To oneself, it simply sounds like a challenge!
Getting to the Hotel Holiday in Sarajevo, the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina (and where we will be basing ourselves for the next 4 nights) from the UK wasn’t exactly straightforward, let me explain. As of September 2024, the only airline flying direct from London to Sarajevo is Ryanair which, for those that follow ones travels, refuse to carry Superbunny because its “too high for the cargo door”. Whilst this may not be true in reality, one isn’t willing to take the risk, the cautious flyer here! As such, one has decided to take the safer (ish) option of flying from good old Heathrow to Frankfurt and then onto Sarajevo, both flights operated by Lufthansa.
Although one had successfully tried connecting flights to and from Armenia, this was the first time that the same airline had been used for both legs. It may be the case that Frankfurt, being one of the major European air traffic hubs, are accustom to connections, however the process was as easy as it gets. As Heathrow had already put both wheelchairs in their own container, all that was necessary was to unload and load said item into the next aircraft. Frankfurt were also willing to take a wheelchair out of the container for the journey across the vast airport, seemed to much hassle for one!
The only thing needed now was to transport us from the aircraft to the next gate. Of course, this had to include boarding a people mover…
However, this journey plan subsequently created a secondary challenge due to the flight from Frankfurt touching down at 22:35pm, 35 minutes after the last bus departs from the airport to the centre. Due to various reasons, Bosnia and Herzegovina isn’t a country full of wheelchair accessible vehicles (or taxis from a brief Google search), however, we have learnt over the years that it is likely that countries will have some form of ‘medical transport’ which is accessible to wheelchairs (I swear that one of these days a private ambulance will be hired!) hence Care390 was discovered. Granted, its not the biggest van in the world but it serves it’s purpose for the 20 minute journey from the airport.
On the journey from the airport, one observed that Sarajevos tram network now possess a fleet of low floor vehicles which may come in handy this week.
Upon ones arrival at the Hotel Holiday, it was clear that the term ‘accessible’ does not mean much to the hotel hence one will omit a review, plenty of space for Superbunny though!
Tomorrow, we plan to head into the city and explore the Old Town before catching the famous cable car up to the site of the 1984 Olympics situated on Trebevic Mountain and the well documented abandoned bobsled track.
India, a melting pot of rich culture and varying landscapes. The country has always intrigued me personally but more so because there is little known to foreigners about disability and accessibility within India (what is available is mostly on the negative side). We have learnt from countries such as Armenia and Tunisia that preconceptions are deceiving and said countries turn out to be the most welcoming to disabled individuals.
Of course, the safest option when planning a trip such as India is to book with a travel agent, however, experience has told one that, because they are tied to specific suppliers of transportation and tours within a country, it becomes difficult when one wishes to use an ‘accessible’ supplier who they are unfamiliar with. It is for this reason that one went ‘solo’ when planning back in December.
Granted, one could have used an agent and took the manual wheelchair, however, the point of my travels, apart from making memories is to try and dismiss the negative information already out there and to prove that countries are actually accessible to both electric and manual wheelchairs, you simply have to adapt to their way of thinking. The main thing when planning India was to source some kind of accessible transportation to get us from A to B which is where The Swarga Foundation came in. We have learnt from Tunisia that it is common for rehabilitation centres to possess wheelchair accessible transportation for moving around patients hence The Swarga Foundation appeared after a quick Google Search. One essentially explained to the founders what we were looking to do and that we needed an accessible van which they kindly let us ‘borrow’ along with a driver for 2 weeks for a fee.
Although organisations such as Swarga and Lotus Royal Move (in Tunisia) may have not fathomed accessible tourism prior to one making contact, by working in tandem with their resources and expertise ‘on the ground’, it is possible to make it simply work. For example, one wished to book a railway journey across India on the Vande Bharat Express hence Swarga kindly liaised with Indian Railways and the local station to make the arrangements.
Anyway, what are my thoughts on India in terms of accessibility? From driving around the country in the van for 2 weeks and seeing the number of infrastructure projects taking place, it is clear that the country is developing itself rather rapidly. What is pleasing is that accessibility is at the forefront of these projects i.e. ramps and lifts being incorporated into new metro systems. In addition, a large proportion of new buildings have either level access or ramps. The main issue, as mentioned previously, is the ability to actually access these due to the lack of drop kerbs or crumbling pavements. When one was rolling around Kochi for a hour, it felt as if the pavements were the only thing making the city difficult to navigate and how, the simple act of maintaining these and by adding drop kerbs could open up a world of possibilities for wheelchair users in India. It is hoped that this is factored into the future ‘vision’ of the country, however, for now, a vehicle is certainly needed.
When it comes to the railways, it is clear that the Vande Bharat rolling stock has been a gamechanger for wheelchair users and will continue to do so over the next 25 years as they are slowly rolled out across the country. However, Indian Railways still have a way to go in terms of implementing suitable boarding ramps and accessible infrastructure at stations. It is pleasing to hear that Chennai Central is now working towards implementing a proper boarding ramp after ones visit.
As I mentioned, as of 2024, India is a rapidly developing country hence it will be interesting for one to return in a few years to witness the progress. Of course, one will be hiring our trusty van once again…
For the next adventure, one will be returning to South Eastern Europe to the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina, Sarajevo where we will also be taking ‘one of the worlds most scenic railway journeys’ to Mostar. When communicating with Bosnian Railways, one was rather confused to learn that a boarding ramp is present at Sarajevo station but not Mostar station (which is accessible via the fire exit as you do!) despite a wheelchair space being on the train. One thinks that Superbunny will be safer in the hotel room!
A trip to India wouldn’t be complete without a ride in a tuk tuk (plus it’s on ones bucket list) hence today we planned a short round trip whilst taking in the sights of the Santa Cruz Cathedral Basilica and the Mattancherry Palace…
Perhaps one day, India will invest in wheelchair accessible tuk tuks akin to Mobilituks found in Cambodia. We will see…
As today is our last day and one had a little money left over, it was time to head down to the Chinese Fishing Nets to purchase some tat. As we approached said footpath which runs parallel to the Fishing Nets and overlooks the Arabian Sea, an individual in an electric wheelchair (the first one has seen in India) came over for a chat and proceeded to take us on a wander to another viewpoint…
Tomorrow, we head back to good old London Gatwick via Cochin International Airport concluding ones journey across Southern India. Final thoughts will be shared in the next post, however I think we have, ultimately, proved that an individual can travel across Southern India in an electric wheelchair (for the majority) given a little creativity so what is stopping you?
The plan for today was to explore the Backwaters of Kerala by boat. Although the hotel offer tours, one wanted something more ‘authentic’ and ‘off the beaten track’ as usual thus The Swarga Foundation kindly made a few enquiries and reserved a private houseboat. Of course, the accessibility of houseboats in Kerala is non existent currently hence Superbunny stayed in the hotel room.
Our 5 hour Backwater tour (costing 125000 rupees) began down a ‘lane’ which runs parallel to the water and the mooring place for our houseboat…
Getting on said boat was a little more dignified than the one in Lake Sevan, Armenia. Once onboard, one could sit back and marvel at the views of the Kerala Backwaters…
Around halfway through, it was time for our private lunch consisting of fish (of course), chicken and other Indian cuisine followed by hot banana soaked in batter (which one has been waiting to try since stepping foot in India)…
As we meandered our way back to the mooring point, more spectacular views presented themselves along with numerous Chinese Fishing Nets…
Perhaps, one day, there will be an accessible houseboat, however, this view will more than suffice in the meantime…
Tomorrow is our last full day exploring Southern India. One of the things on ones updated bucket list is to experience a drive in a tuk-tuk hence that is the mission for tomorrow before we attend a traditional cultural show after bumping into one of the performers on the Water Metro yesterday.
Today one decided to swap the van wheels for the wheels of Superbunny and wander/roll around the Fort Kochi area under our own steam. Although there are a few ‘busy’ roads (very quaint compared to Chennai though!), the area consists of many side roads and alleyways that are perfect for electric wheelchairs minus the potholes and goats…
As we wound our way through Fort Kochi, the famous Chinese Fishing Nets came into view but so did the hasslers…
The Chinese Fishing Nets are situated along a elevated footpath which can be accessed by ramps at various points. Of course, the Chinese Fishing Nets are a magnet for tourists hence said footpath is lined with stalls selling tat or trying to get you to try the Nets, do they really think that Superbunny can roll across flimsy pieces of wood (one says that but it has happened in the past i.e. Russia!)? However if you have the patience to ignore sellers, you reach a paved viewing point…
Next stop was the Kochi Water Metro which one was very excited to try with Superbunny as you can imagine! As the system only opened in 2023, all the stations possess ramps or lifts and the boats are as flush to the pontoon as humanly possible. Disabled individuals can ride for FREE…
Of course, if the water is a little choppy, said ramp (which contains a tiny step) moves a little, however the staff are on hand to keep it as still as possible allowing for a run up…
The boats interior has been designed to look similar to a metro train and has two designated wheelchair spaces positioned next to the wall for those who wish to use them…
We caught the Water Metro from Fort Kochi to High Court which is situated within the actual city of Kochi. On the way over, we were told about an accessible restaurant that we should try hence that became the objective. Bear in mind that this was the first time that one has tried to roll around the craziness of an Indian city in Superbunny without the van!
One of the main issues (which I believe is trying to be resolved) when rolling around is the width between the bollards designed to stop motorcycles from mounting the pavement, they are simply not wide enough for wheelchairs. This means that you either have to jump down onto the road or try to jump up through the vegetation to avoid these things. The other issue is the crumbling state of some pavements/drop kerbs, let’s also plonk a tree in for good measure…
What one can’t fathom is that once you reach places i.e. accessible restaurants, you either have a gleaming ramp or lift (albeit in dingy underground parking lots) ready to greet you yet its a struggle to reach said place using pavements. Of course, we are fortune enough to have a wheelchair accessible van at our disposal, however think about how many lives could be improved by simply sprucing up the pavements and drop kerbs, all the other infrastructure is there waiting for wheelchair users to use!
Tomorrow, we head out of Kochi to Kumarakom where The Swarga Foundation have reserved a private houseboat for one to explore the Kerala Backwaters.
Today we embarked on our 5 hour trip in the wheelchair accessible van (courtesy of The Swarga Foundation) from Pollachi to our final destination, Kochi. Unfortunately, the way one had intended to travel suffered a few landslides hence was impassable so the highway it was. However as the highway is being upgraded and therefore congested, Google Maps decided to take us on another tour of rural India, this time winding our way through villages on unpaved roads…you wouldn’t get that on a touring holiday would you?
5 hours later, we arrived at The Fragrant Nature Hotel in Fort Kochi. The thin piece of land also overlooks the Arabian Sea marking the end of our coast to coast journey across India.
It was difficult trying to source an accessible hotel in Fort Kochi, however, one certainly made the correct choice booking Fragrant Nature. For the first time on this trip, one has a ‘proper’ accessible room and wet room, this is like luxury!
Unlike Chennai, the Fort Kochi area is a little more walkable (and less traffic!) hence the plan for tomorrow is to have a wander around said area visiting the famous Chinese Fishing Nets and taking a ride on India’s first water metro!
After a lazy morning, the plan was to head up to the Waterfall Tea Estate to sample and purchase some fresh tea for one to take back to the UK, simple right? Of course not!
As I mentioned, one wanted to save money in preparation for our final destination, Kochi hence decided to book a conventional taxi. We gave the Ibex an address to drive us to, however, the taxi driver seemed to have other ideas.
In order to reach the Waterfall Tea Estate from Pollachi, you are required to drive along the interior road of the Aliyar Reserve Forest. To enter, you are required to, once again pay and show your passport. The estate is situated high above the clouds meaning that hairpin bends are plenty…
Said bends do present spectacular views however…
As we ascended higher into the clouds, the tea estate came into view. We reached the sales outlet shack where we thought that the driver would drop us off but no, he simply kept driving through the Waterfall Tea Estate…
After reaching the summit, the driver pulled over and simply said ‘We go down now’. By this time, one was a little hungry as we had expected at least some kind of food, luckily there was a roadside shack at the summit selling snacks…
It was then back down through the Aliyar Reserve Forest stopping at another roadside shack to purchase tea, not how we envisaged the day going but there we go…
Tomorrow we get our wheels back (the accessible van which has been driven back from Chennai to Coimbatore over the weekend…definitely putting the miles on that thing!) to drive another 5 hours to our final destination, Kochi on the west coast of India.
To answer the all important question, no, we didn’t see any tigers on the faff of a ‘jeep’ safari, let me explain.
When booking the taxi to the Anamalai Tiger Reserve, the Ibex informed us that it is best to visit as early as possible to avoid the queues i.e. 6am. Before you enter said reserve, you are required to purchase a ticket from a roadside shack and show your passport. This only allows you to drive through a certain part of the reserve before you are required to purchase another ticket, show your passport AND visa! It was shortly after this that a monkey kindly decided to jump inside the taxi to steal the majority of food that we had substituted for breakfast.
When planning this trip, ATR informed me that the safari leaves every 2 hours or when it is full. Whilst this is true, it’s very disjointed and the ‘jeep’ safari actually uses clapped out buses instead. Its lucky that one has always wanted to ride on an old Indian bus, can’t fathom how they are used in major cities…
Anyway, just after we embarked on our 3 hour safari, the guide informed us that tiger sightings are rare, however we pressed on regardless. During our 3 hour excursion, we were fortunate to see deers, peacocks and Indian Goats roaming free…
One of the other attractions at ATR is the elephant camp which is, typically, closed for refurbishment leaving little to do. At least we got to experience the reserve for which over half is open to vehicles meaning that Superbunny could have joined.
Tomorrow we head to the Waterfalls Tea Estate in the hope of trying fresh tea. As one is attempting to save money for Kochi, we have booked a conventional taxi although it seems like it could be accessible for an electric wheelchair…
